我行我路
来自interiordesign的文章Walk This Way
Marloes ten Bhömer believes her shoes can change the world, one step at a time
时尚和建筑的结合，来自于26岁的Marloes ten Bhömer ，在她就读于荷兰Arnhem的Academy of Visual Arts and Design的产品设计专业期间，她就着迷于鞋子的 utilitarian structures，并且开始小规模的制作。并在Royal College of Art 的时候得到了Alexander McQueen 和 Boudicca的启发，在Ron Arad的课程中，她完善了这10双鞋子。“不仅材料和制作方法可以改变鞋子，行走的方式和思想同样可以”。
这是一篇访问：
1- How is the process to design a shoes like the blue ones?there is a very structure process? or a more loosy and unconsciousprocess?
I have a very strong agenda regarding what I want from my designs. I strongly believe it is a shame when you can instantly understand the world of products around you. Why should products make themselves understood immediately? By designing objects that ignore or criticise conventions, one can liberate design and make the product-world less generic. I introduce forms, a wide variety materials and ways of construction in my work, which are mostly used in other design-fields, in order to break down preconceptions we have about shoes. So all the work I make redefines what the object can look like and or functions. It differs every time how I start on the projects. Sometimes I begin with a sketch of how I want the shoe to look like and than solve it with any sort of equipment I can think of, like cnc-milling, 3d prototyping, etc. The blue shoe started of as pieces of material and a last. The form was created from a flat piece of leather, cut and folded into a form that emulates a shoe. The different way of making lead to the design.
2- Develop a shoes have some obvious technical necessities, how affects
this technical specifications the design process?
Shoes have technical necessities; depending on the function you want them to for fill. In the shoes I am designing I stretch the way they are made, which sometimes affects the way you walk on them. In any other type of design changing the way you use the object can give the object a new value, I don?t see the reason for a different approach regarding shoes.
In one particular design the heel was taken off as I wanted to move as far away from any convention shoe as possible. Tiptoeing on them is the result. As a product designer I am trained to solve any problem that arises, so after I have designed a piece any technical requirement can be met.
3- I read in some of the magazine notes posted in your site about
deconstructivist like a style or way to thinks the object, you work
follow deconstructivist or another kind of process (point of view?) to
think the design?
In the Higher School of Arts in Arnhem, where I studied for my BA, emphasis was on the making of objects in order to come to an original design vision. This approach leads to studying the way objects are made and constructed; an obvious step is to take objects apart in order to understand more about the object you are designing. However for some of the work I have designed, I totally start from something else than the way shoes have been constructed so far. For example; I started with a foot or a technique and found a way of making shoes around these. One example of this is a shoe I completely designed in a 3D-computer program. A block was build after which I carved out any form that was needed for the foot and space for the material to bend.
4- My last question is about your tastes
What kind of images (or design) you like to see at the moment? work of
another people inspires to you? or what else inspire to you? music?
books?
A designer whose work I find very inspiring these days is Konstantin Grcic. He invents new typologies which have great clarity about them. At the same time they are not one-liners. Sometimes new typologies need introduction, his don?t.
A book I find very inspiring is ?design noir? by Tony Dunne and Fiona Raby. It talks about a function of design that is widely being undermined. Aspects of human interaction with objects, another function of design like storytelling, is being dealt with, some aspects that are overlooked by most designers just interested in making an easygoing commercial product.
I listen to pansonic a lot.
